Valleys & Victoriana: A day around Aberystwyth
Morning: Devil's Bridge
60 minute drive from Hill View
Heading via Tregaron it’ll take you about an hour to reach Devil's Bridge where you want to head to the small main car park. Despite the fact that the only free thing here is the car park, this beautiful area is definitely well worth a visit. Set in the confluence of three steep sided valleys you start by the Three Bridges, stacked one on top of the other in a steep sided gorge; the Devil supposedly built the first one to trick a local who wanted to cross the river below.
You have the choice here of 2 walks, you have to pay to access both but they're relatively inexpensive as tourist attractions go. Out of season when the ticket booth is unstaffed you can still access the walks via the card readers on the entrance turnstiles. The short walk (about 15 mins) affords great views of the bridge itself and the initial cascade falling into the Devil’s Punch Bowl as it twists and bores its way through rocks that have been shaped over eons.
The long walk (around an hour), steeply winds its way down the hill via an ever increasing series of erratically sized steps and stairs. The landscape feels like you've stepped into Tolkien’s journey to Rivendell and provides views through the valleys in the distance; but the main event here are the views of the Mynach Falls as they drop in stages to the valley floor. The return ascent gives even better close-ups of the falls as you find yourself once again climbing a series of steep steps to the top.
Well worth a visit in the off-season thanks to a complete lack of crowds - or indeed anyone at times! - as well as more powerful waterfalls thanks to the winter rains. Arrive early in peak season to get a parking spot and to beat the crowds. A general level of fitness and mobility is required here though there are various benches dotted about and handrails throughout. Slow and steady is the order of the day!
Afternoon: Aberystwyth
24 minute drive from Devil's Bridge
Onwards to Aberystwyth itself, or ‘Aber' as it’s known by locals, which will take you about 20 minutes. If you want to park close to the seafront then aim for the car park at St Michael's by the castle, or North Road or South beach parking options.
There's plenty to see here in one of the biggest towns in Mid Wales. It’s great to stretch the legs here and stroll along the mile long Victorian promenade, past the oldest pier in Wales and up Constitution Hill, either on foot or by the Funicular Clifftop Railway - note seasonal running times. Up here the views along the coastline go on for miles on a clear day and you can have a paned i de (cup of tea) or coffi (coffee) at the cafe there and check out the Camera Obscura for 360 degree views of the surrounding area.
The beaches here are great to spend time on, with South beach being the best for swimming and easy access to near the castle. When the tide is out a whole series of dark rock pools appear which entice exploration by shoreline denizens but beware of those slippery rocks. The castle ruins are also worth a wander around as they’re free to access.
If you find yourself here in mid to late winter then you stand a chance of witnessing the amazing sight of thousands of starlings coming in to roost at the pier, flocking in the sky at dusk in haunting and graceful patterns called murmurations.
If you want to see what Welsh culture is all about then consider visiting the imposing and inspiring National Library of Wales where they have not just books but a whole series of events and exhibitions throughout the year. You can also visit the Amgueddfa Ceredigion Museum set in the old Edwardian theatre in the centre of town.
EVENING: Aberaeron
30 minutes from Aberystwyth
If you're not yet ready to head back to your hot-tub, consider heading home via the coast road (A487) to Aberaeron to soak up some evening views across the sea, and grab an evening meal.
This little town is a visual treat with its painted buildings clustered round a protected harbourside. The coastline here is more rocky than other parts but still affords excellent views of the bay and walking to the east along the coast is somewhat flatter than many sections of the coast path.
The main draw of the area is the excellent range of craft shops and eateries where many offer great outdoor seating areas from to watch the world go by when the weather allows. Definitely worth going to Hive for its excellent food and ice cream as well as its position on the harbour.
Alternative option: Travel by steam!
50 minutes from Hill View
If you're visiting April through October, you can add a little extra fun to this trip by heading straight to Aberystwyth and then picking up the Vale of Rheidol Steam train to take you to Devil's Bridge. This spectacular train journey winds through stunning scenery along 12 miles of narrow tracks and allows you to step back in time and travel like daytrippers of old. The Vale of Rheidol Railway runs from late March to the end of October and is dog friendly.
